Venice

The streets of Venice echo a history that spans a millennium. It is the story of how a swampy lagoon was transformed from a fishing village into one of the richest trading powers in the world. Yet, for all her history, Venice is not a museum but from within this labyrinth of narrow bridges, cramped courtyards, twisting canals and squares, she is a living, breathing city.

When we first walked out of Santa Lucia station, we smiled because we immediately recognised why people can’t deny the beauty of Venice. It is so fantastic with the blue colour from the Grand Canal, the paved and cobbled walkways and the sights of water traffic, which is so unique to Venice, that it has been attracting travellers for ages. 

Venice, La Serenissima, is such a unique place that you continually pinch yourself into realising that you are in a functioning city and not some theme park. The crumbling house fronts, the broken shutters, the quiet canals…it is hard to believe that this city is meant to be lived in.

With its historical canals, gondolas, winding streets and alleyways and connecting bridges zig-zagging across the canals which provide serene vistas and once crossed, lead you to another campo around the corner, it is easy to see why tourists love this city. I find Venice is a fun and a great place to get lost in. However, the city can be expensive, especially on the main island. But, Venice needn’t cost a fortune as well priced restaurants in out of the way calles and self-catering options abound, such as the Rialto markets as well as local markets in the squares.

Living on the lagoon comes, I suspect, with its own set of challenges. There are the high tides (we heard the aqua alta sirens on our last day in Venice), the waves that roll through the canals caused by motorised modern boats eating away the stone foundations and everything has to be done by foot or by boat. But all of this adds to the charm of Venice.

Visiting in summer, it was tough to explore the Piazza San Marco and its surrounding squares and laneways due to the throngs of visitors. We did get into the basilica and Doges Palace, a benefit of arriving early and purchasing tickets in advance . The visit to the basilica was, whilst not awe inspiring, noteworthy for its glittering mosaics that line the inside of her grandiose domes and the Pala d’Oro, a golden wall encrusted with pearls, sapphires, emeralds and garnets. 



We visited the Palazzo Ducale, built in the 9th century. We were surprised at the magnificence and opulence of the building with a marble corridor built in Gothic style. The enormous stairs outside were decorated with statues of Nereid and the God of War. Inside, the building is sophisticated and beautified by big paintings and wooden sculptures on the ceiling and vast rooms and auditoriums. The dungeons gave a glimpse of how prisoners were treated by the powerful rulers of Venice.

As the day progressed, the queues got longer and seemed endless for the Campanile...and this forces you to find your own niches to explore. San Giorgio Maggiore is one such place. This is a simple church but would be one of the most photographed churches in Venice – people standing in Piazza San Marco looking out over the lagoon at the swaying gondolas will have this basilica in the background. 

From the belltower, you get a superb view across to Venice and over the lagoon. You can admire the San Marco square and the Palazzo Ducale, which is more difficult from the San Marco campanile. You will also see Grand Canal, Punta della Dogana and even the Arsenale in the east.

From Piazza San Marco, it would only be natural to follow the yellow signs (and crowds) to Rialto. While the bridge is impressive, the fish and vegetable market tucked away to its side is far more interesting. 



Here, you witness true Venetian life and realise that Venice is a functioning and lively city.  Chefs, Venetian housewives and tourists alike come here to shop. The market is awash with colour, noise and the smell of the sea. The produce is fresh and well priced and the stall holder will even clean your purchase for you. This is the largest and most popular of the markets in Venice, but smaller stalls are scattered across Venice, in local squares and on the canals.

The Rialto market is a favourite for Venetians, however, developers want to get their hands on this prime piece of land by the Grand Canal. They say that the population is dwindling and the market can do trade at a cheaper location. Defiant flags state how the Venetian’s feel – “Rialto do not touch”.

In a city like Venice, almost every home is rendered fascinating by the remains of ancient arches and windows juxtaposed with flowery window boxes and strings of washing above canal-side restaurants and cafes.

The Jewish Ghetto in Cannaregio is a world away from Venice, as we had come to know it. Away from the bustling Strada Nuova and within five minutes, you find yourself inside Europe’s oldest Jewish ghetto. With its distinctive tall buildings, quiet courtyards and fantastic Jewish museum, it offers a fascinating slice of Venetian history, while being mercifully free of tourists.

No trip to Venice is complete without a boat ride out to one or two of her islands. Murano and Burano are the most visited.  From Venice, we take a vaporetti to Murano to discover the art of manufacturing blown glass, the same art that was practiced in the 10th century. 



These glass factories were originally located in the city of Venice though eventually this art was spread to Murano island in the 13th century. We had a chance to witness artisans producing various glass products such as a heart and flower. They melted sand and limestone to make materials for the glass masterpieces. 

Murano is not as lively as Venice. We walked through small lanes, choose a local restaurant near the canal and enjoyed lunch in the garden and felt as relaxed as we felt in love with the city.

We found our way to the island of Burano with bright and colourful houses that captivates all visitors from their first step upon the island Burano brought us a peaceful feeling and wiped away all our worries of our daily lives. 



Like Venice and other small islands, the narrow streets were linked by different bridges over blue canals. The main means of transportation were boats anchored in front of every house. Although Burano does not boast big works of architecture, its colourful little houses along the canal has offered tourists unforgettable memories.

Back on the main island, we inevitably found our way back to our local campo, Campo Santa Margherita, which is considered the heart of local life in the Dorsoduro. It is near to the university and visited almost only by locals, who like to gather here in the evening to eat, drink and relax.

We do enjoy a typical Venetian spritz (aperitif made with prosecco and aperol) and a beer. Ideally, choose a terrace with a view on the lagoon or a canal where you can watch the crowds – and we did, by the Grand Canal and a seat by the grill. This is the perfect moment to reflect on your day, to enjoy the moment in Venice.

Many tourists disappear after the sunset. You won’t believe how quiet and evocative Venice is after dusk. Dusk in Venice is best seen from the water – the perfect excuse for an afternoon or evening trip. Few cities on earth are as still as Venice at night. No street vendors, no tourists, no sound – only the occasional splashing of oars in a canal or the sound of the water craft making their way to destinations unknown.

Venice is a place of outstanding beauty. We could have easily spent another week here, just walking the quiet lanes, peeping into private courtyards and sipping coffees in tiny squares. You can experience Venice in many different ways, with a bit of a history lesson or simply by drifting and walking. The real beauty of Venice is getting lost. Venice can be described as a tourist trap, yet, for all the crowds and souvenir shops, Venice is still a living and working city. From the quiet laundry-lined streets of Castello and the Arsenale to the more populated Cannaregio, from the quiet squares of the Dorsoduro to the bustling markets and canal-side workshops, you can glean a picture of real Venice if you look hard enough.